5/27 – 5/28/13

Tomorrow the A&M team returns to College Station, Texas. We don’t know exactly where I’m going to be stationed yet. I should know within the next few hours. I’d be happy to be stationed anywhere in the DRC but would prefer Butembo. ..

A few hours later. We have two options. Live in the provincial capital Goma and work through Catholic Relief Services- they would provide security, transportation and a place to live. The only drawback is that the security would keep me more confined than I would like.  The second option which I and A&M prefer- is to work with Caritas in the rural city of Butembo. Here I would live in a church provided by the Catholic Church and work closely with the local university.  The problem is we are having trouble hammering out a contract with them.

To provide more time for the contract to be established I will travel with A&M graduate Beau Davis
to the Virunga Park in Rumangabo. I think he runs a guest house, gorilla sanctuary and provides logistic support for the park rangers.  I hear the park is home to gorillas and rebels . I will stay at the park for three nights.

Later, way later that night. Turns out there are a lot of NGO people that like to go out in Goma. Everyone is very friendly and warm, and my hotel is incredible.  But I still want to get to Butembo. I love a good party but something about living alone in a community is special. It’s hard to explain. During Peace Corps I picked up this idea that that quickest way to help a community is when you view yourself as a part of that community. It’s not a better view of aid but it’s the approach I like and I don’t have much time.

See picture my hotel room.

Evacuate, Club, Mass 5/25 - 5/26/13

With additional UN Peace Keepers mandated to use force arriving in Goma, the rebels are flexing their muscles by shelling the outskirts of Goma.  In response, the Texas A&M has been forced to relocate us just across the Rwandan border. We moved less than a mile away from Goma but there is a stark contrast in standards of living between the DR Congo and Rwanda.

After a long business dinner overlooking the lake, our group started to thin out until it was just Vince and I sitting next to our hotel pool discussing the logistics of the project.  At 10pm the restaurant turned down their music and across the lake and in the mountains we could hear the melodies of African club music. The music was a call to adventure Vince and I couldn’t resist. We asked our two waiters who were our age to join us in finding the source of the music.

I couldn’t believe I was leaving the confines of the hotel and venturing out into a new country on the back of a small motorcycle taxi.

The two night clubs we visited were small but packed with people. Surprisingly, guys stood around in circles and danced. Occasionally, a girl would grab a guy to dance with but just as often two guys would dance with each other.  The dancing was little uncomfortable but overall it was a great time. I like to think I’m pretty adventurous but I didn’t dance with any of the guys. Haha.

Early the next morning, Dr. Price, Justus and I attended a local Catholic Church for Mass. The service was in Kiswahili, and we think it might have been a special Mass for the children because there were A LOT of children and the service was being videotaped. I have always found comfort in attending Mass abroad. No matter where I am in the world, I can always find my home in the Catholic Church.

5/24/13

I spent the 23^rd and 24^th conducting key informant interviews with Justus (former A&M student) in Butembo.  The interviews covered university professors, a shop owner, rancher, farmers and veterinarian.

Interesting take aways from our interviews- park conservation is an outside concept that has been forced on the Congolese. A common view was that the national parks are being preserved until resources are found and the land given to the rich for exportation.  Also, we didn’t encounter anyone that uses fertilizers, pesticides, or herbicides on their farms.

On the way back from Butembo to Beni we pulled over and I took this picture of the valley.

Trying to add another picture. Slot internet is a Pain. As the movie the stand lot said "Come one! My clothes are going out of style!"

last night in Rwanda

Returning to Butembo May 23rd

I returned to Botembo today with the rest of the team to conduct key informant interviews- there has to be a better term to call these interviews.  We sound like spies calling the people we interview informants…. The interviews went well. I was paired up with all French speakers, so to speed up the process I asked for two of the 4 interviews to be conducted entirely in French. I didn’t understand a word but detailed notes were taken for me and it put us back on time. We interviewed a priest at the Cathedral, lawyer, farmer and professor. They basically told us that the DRC faces three main obstacles to development: lack of security, lack of paved roads, and limited access to power.

Attached is a picture of a road in Botembo. The sprawling city is comprised entirely of dirt roads with adjacent open water drainage canals.

BUTEMBO May 22nd

I took an hour and a half chartered ride to Butembo and back today without the rest of the team.

Butembo is a sprawling city with no paved roads and sparse generator produced electricity. Attached is a picture of me eating in the finest restaurant in Butembo. 

Notice, I’m eating in the dark.  The prices on menu were jaw dropping- $12 - $50 a plate. The driver was given the equivalent of $2-5 to find his own food. I would have much rather gone with him! I still don’t know what African street food tastes like and I’m sure my stomach is very thankful.

It’s hard to believe the DRC is tied for bottom on the list of failed states.  The DRC is underdeveloped but the people are very hard working. The road to Butembo was covered with people taking their produce to market.  Granted, virtually no houses along the route or even in the cities have power or running water. But a basic economy is functioning well in this area. And women are driving cars, business leaders and taking a leading role in the survey we are implementing so I’m assuming there is a degree of equality here.

Attached is a picture of the market and a house from my moving ride.

I spoke with the director of Caritas (a Catholic charity) in Butembo. He offered me a small room to live in and said he could find me a French tutor. Unfortunately, because of time constraints I did not see the room but was told it might have limited access to electricity. I have very low expectations; I’m just hoping it will have its own bathroom and a mosquito net.

 I do not want to be stationed in Rwanda because I view that as living in an ivory tower. Instead, I want to be with the Congolese people! Security concerns might force me to Rwanda, or worse, back to the United States.

…. Writing again late night.

After speaking with Dr. Price it sounds like I will have to go back to Goma with the rest of the team. I was hoping to stay in Butembo to work but Texas A&M first needs to make a contract with Caritas. I hope something can be worked out…

And the Study Begins, Beni, May 21st

I’m itching to get into the field and start conducting interviews. Until today the Texas A&M team and I have been training the surveyors. The surveyors are locals, middle class, smart and seem to be interested in the project. Unfortunately, because of security concerns, I’m not allowed to venture into the city alone and even the surveyors are not permitted to visit certain parts of the city and surrounding country side.

Last night we were able to conduct our first key informant interview. Key informant interviews are typically interviews with local businessmen.  Dr. Price interviewed a local who has just started a water bottling company in the nearby mountains.

Off we go into the wild blue yonder, Beni, May 18th

Today I traveled north to the city of Beni in a chartered United Nations plane. So I can tell everyone I have traveled by a chartered plane. Flying in style! The reason we took the private flight is because the rebels are very active in the national park that separates Goma and Beni.

I feel like describing today in first person....

Stepping off the United Nations plane into the dry African heat was relief. Vince later told me he was nervous during the flight because of the small size of the prop plane and the turbulence. I on the other hand kept my eyes glued to the farming communities below; searching for suitable locations for the crash landing I momentarily considered would be better than the motion/altitude sickness I was experiencing. Thankfully, I made it to Beni in the nick of time.

The city of Beni is an hour plane ride north of Goma and I assume an hour car ride from the border with Rwanda. The city is dusty and hot. The homes appear to be made of mud and grass. The mayor of the town was very receptive of our presence and genuinely thinks our work in agriculture is what the city needs.

According to the mayor, the city lost most of its 22 agro processing businesses due to coffee disease, degradation of the power supply (our hotel only has a few hours of electricity today which is produced at the hotel), high levels of violence and the break down in governance after the former president Mobutu was thrown out of office.

I think my anti-malaria medication induces dreams. I finally was able to catch up on sleep today and I had a very emotionally taxing dream about my father who passed away.

Planting Enterpreneurship, May 17th

I met the famous Bo Davis today; a former A&M student working in one of the DRC’s national parks.  He proudly wears his Aggie ring with a huge diamond in it.

Tomorrow I travel to Beni in North Kivu by private United Nations charter flight. We are traveling by air because the roads are in disrepair. It’s almost unbelievable that minerals are actually flown out of the country. I’m not sure but I believe regions of the DRC are extremely isolated because the roads are in deplorable condition and people are so poor that even if they were functioning they wouldn't be able to afford to travel.

From Beni I travel with Justice to a small rural city. This will be the location we perform a baseline survey with the help of locals. Our baseline survey aims to uncover potential investment opportunities. We have a bottom up strategy of development- the DRC government has no incentive to invest in controlling this untamed corner of the world. By planting the seeds of entrepreneurship, we hope order and governance will return to the region.

Rwanda to Goma, May 17th

The drive through Rwanda was one of the most beautiful sights I could have ever imagined. The road followed a small river that snaked its way though tall mountains covered by small plots of land. I'm surprised how densely populated Rwanda is; everywhere I looked farmers were working the land and walking up and down the street. The capital of Rwanda, Kigali is pristine. While motorcycle taxis buzz down the busy streets, myriad of sweepers keep the streets tidy.

The crossing into the DRC went off without a hitch. The border crossing is located next to Lake Kivu. None of the individuals on my team had heard anything about the "exploding" dangers of the lake. Before departing for the Africa, I read that the lakes depths contain a very high concentration of poisonous gasses producing violent lake overturns due to the nearby volcano. I was trying to downplay the risk but our driver over heard my explanation of the lake and said "the gas is dangerous, there are no fish". This came as a shock to me because I knew the lake had the potential of becoming supersaturated, discharging all of its bent up gas causing thousands of deaths, but I thought that was about the same chance as an asteroid hitting me. The driver’s revelation that the lake couldn't support life is going to be in the back of my mind the entire time I’m working in Goma. I know the lake "turning over" is probably a very small risk but it's still kind of scary.

In terms of poverty, driving from Rwanda to the DRC is night and day. Driving along a beautiful paved road with smiling faces waving at the white USAID jeep we are traveling in is replaced with a red dirt road, cold faces and UN Peace Keepers.

Today I met with agricultural extension and government advisors. We are getting buy-in and advice from the local government for our survey. I’m really impressed with the work of my colleagues. Justice speaks fluent French and makes friends everywhere he goes; Vincent is picking up French incredibly fast and is doing a great job running the logistics; and Dr. Price has a wealth of experience.

I asked a Catholic Relief Service employee why he works for CRS and why in Goma. His answer sums up a lot of how I feel. Organizations like USAID typically are removed from the situation on the ground reducing their effectiveness. And these large governmental organizations are not effective in dangerous places like Goma because of their emphasis on security. Working in a place like Goma you’re not going to find many missionaries or people on vacation.   Instead, development work is unique, down to earth and very rewarding. I’m also impressed with everyone working in development here because when the rewarding nature of aid work wanes, what’s left is a dangerous country that probably can be terrifying.

Africa! Rwanda

Heart of Darkness

I'm finally on my flight from Brussels to Rwanda. I will have logged about 19 hours of flying, 15 of which I have slept. I wake up to eat and that's about it.

I meant to read: "Heart of Darkness" on the flight but I only made it to page 10 so I can't comment on the book yet. But arriving in Rwanda at night feels like I am arriving to the heart of darkness- the airplane's wing blocks my sight of the ground and out in the distance is a sea of darkness.

Made it to the hotel WITH BAGS! The airline staff told us our baggage wouldn't arrive for days. Rwanda at night and the hotel remind me a lot of Jamaica. The night air is hot but it can't conceal the harbinger of a cold night’s breeze that is sure to come. The hotel doesn't have AC but it's not bad at all. I'll try to include a picture... A former Aggie living here meets us for dinner and drinks. I was the only one that ate but the food was good. I try to avoid eating before traveling but hopefully I will be ok for the drive to Goma, DRC.

First night sleep in Africa- I thought I was being overcautious by sleeping under a mosquito net and wearing mosquito repellent to bed. This morning I awoke to what Jamaicans call mosquito lullabies- at least two were buzzing my head and I felt a stinging sensation on my forehead.

Belgium- A day of suprises, May 14th

Different people different reactions

I hate to admit it but when people see Peace Corps Jamaica on my resume I think I had a two year vacation. I hope an agricultural survey in the Democratic Republic of the Congo will counteract that perception.

While traveling to Belgium on my way to Africa I was shocked when I introduced myself to a Peace Corps volunteer from West Africa and the first thing she said was I was in the posh corps because I served in Jamaica. Not a pause, not a smile, just straight up resentment.

In Belgium, our flight to Rwanda is delayed for a day due to "mechanical issues", but the rumor is the airline baggage handlers are on strike.  All the passengers of the plane were bused to a small hotel outside of Belgium- not a bad place to adjust to the jet lag. While on the way to the hotel I introduced myself to another Peace Corps volunteer who served in Rwanda. She was on her way back to interview for a job there. She was a lot friendlier and seemed to be indifferent about where I served.

The last and my favorite reaction to serving in Peace Corps Jamaica was Dr Price's reaction.  When talking about Jamaica he actually said Jamaica was- I’m not sure exactly what words he used but he basically said it was the one of the most difficult countries he has worked in.

While at the hotel in Belgium I got into a dispute with a guy from Rwanda about why Rwanda has been economically prosperous while the DRC remains stuck in the quagmire of economic hardship. I’m not even in the DRC and I’m already defending it.

While walking along the river outside our hotel in Belgium, I met a development specialist on his way to Africa. After a few minutes of small talk he revealed to me that he recently lost one of his American employees in Africa. The tragic story was told by a man who was confident his employee was performing noble work but his words could not fully express his trepidation of experiencing another loss.

It’s summer but Belgium is COLD.

Democratic Republic of the Congo

On My Way! 
May 13, 2013

My shower pours a torrent of water of my body and into my Jacuzzi style tub. The vaulted ceilings, the natural stone walls are nice but the extravagance of the shower is lost on me. Hot water, a shower, just running water is what I appreciate! Peace Corps feels like a distant memory but the ice cold bucket baths and 20 second Peace Corps showers feel like yesterday.

The past week I have frantically finished my Master’s degree in International Affairs from Texas A&M’s Bush School, moved out of my apartment, and said goodbye to good friends. Like the torrent of water that rushes over me, the realization I’m actually traveling to Africa is a little overwhelming. I have been so preoccupied I didn’t make the time take it all in.

Today I will be traveling to the DRC with Dr. Price of the Ag Economics department for two weeks to perform an agricultural assessment.  After the two weeks I will be left behind to act as a contractor for the University and tie up any loose ends. I should be in Goma for 3 months.

The Democratic Republic of the Congo has a history of heartache.  Due to war, corruption, health standards etc., the DRC is number two on the Failed State Index and the poorest country in the world. But the Congolese music, natural beauty and spirit are strong. The DRC sounds like Jamaica. It will be a unique adventure but I have to admit it does feel like I’m going back home.  I love the adventure and this one will be one of my biggest yet.

Morgan, our family dog, pouts outside the bathroom door because she knows I’ll be departing in the morning. Her impatient scratching at the door brings me back to reality. Time to trade in the comfort of home for the adventure and fulfillment of living aboard....On my way!